A little off the beaten backpacker track behind the Mae Surin mountains lies the provincial capital of Mae Hong Son. Myanmar begins in the north and west of this province and there are many refugees in the region. Some have been here for decades, others only since the military coup. Mae Hong Son is a small regional center with a bus station and even an airport, surrounded by forested mountains. The most idyllic corner of the city is the temple by the Jong Kham lake. Of course, some of the many travelers also find their way to Mae Hong Son, but this place and the surrounding area, which is well worth experiencing, is nowhere near as crowded as Pai, for example.
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The area around the temple is also a hotspot for tourists – in this case both locals and travelers from distant countries. There is also a more “urban center” in the city and near the airport with local markets, lots of traffic, various stores and service providers – just what the locals need. But towards the evening in particular, the meeting place for the locals shifts towards the lake and temples. And not without reason. The Jong Kham lake and temple are lovely to look at and, together with the surrounding wooded mountains, form a beautiful backdrop for the night market.
The various backpacker hostels and some good restaurants with Thai and international food are also located in the vicinity of the lake. In a side street, a few souvenir stores, art dealers, wellness providers and tour operators also offer their services to backpackers.
My individual trekking tour
This is where I met Nam from Sawasdee Tours, which runs one-day and multi-day hikes through the mountains. As I was traveling a little before the season, she gave me my private day tour in the mountains on the border with Myanmar, including a visit to a Karen village, lunch around the campfire with herbal tea prepared in a bamboo tube and a visit to a friendly farming family. She impressed me with her knowledge of the local flora and fauna and never tired of showing me things that I would probably have walked past without recognizing.
The Karen are one of the many indigenous tribes that live in small villages in the region. One sub-group (Padaung) of the Karen is known as the “longneck”, as the women have stretched their necks with neck spirals and deformed their shoulder skeletons since childhood. Since the 1980s, several “show villages” have sprung up in the region, where the Padaung women are “paraded” as an ethnic attraction. This has enabled these families to improve their financial situation somewhat, but others earn the big money. This practice has been rightly condemned by the UN, among others.
I spent the whole day walking with Nam in the forests and mountains west of Mae Hong Son and got to know a region that I would probably otherwise have “overlooked”. Nam told me about King Bumibol, who encouraged the Thai people to hang plants in the trees to spread them – a kind of mistletoe of the Siamese jungle, drew my attention to a species of lizard that could sail long distances with “flying skins” between its limbs and led me through remote valleys where rice fields provided the food supply. She gave me my first access to the natural beauty of the region, so to speak.
Thai night market by the Jong Kham lake
At the lake in Mae Hong Son, many local families and groups gather in the evening for the typical Thai soup kitchen market (night market). Even if there are always a few tourists meandering through – this is a feast for the Thai! Many of the families come with their extensive cooking equipment, set up their stalls at dusk under gas lights and fairy lights and then cook, sizzle and braise together, serve, taste, feast, talk, shop…
Exploring the surroundings of Mae Hong Son by moped
Pha Bong Hot Spring
In order to explore the area around Mae Hong Son, I rented a moped for several days. This was a really good decision, because many of the real local treasures can otherwise only be explored on organized guided tours and day trips.
A few kilometers south of Mae Hong Son on the road to Khun Yuam and Mae Sariang there is a “thermal bath” Pha Bong Hot Spring on the right.
The facility itself looked pretty run-down when I visited, the large pool was drained and there were deep cracks at the bottom. But it was possible to enjoy the hot floor water in bathtubs in individual cabins, and treatments are also offered. It had something of the feel of spa treatments in Europe in the sixties and seventies.
As always interesting for me, I took advantage of the Thai massage offer, which is used less by tourists and more by locals. The place was well attended, I even had to wait about 1/2 hour, although there were about 5 places available and a correspondingly large number of ladies and gentlemen working hard. In terms of cost, it was the cheapest massage I’ve had in the whole of Thailand, but it was still good and offered by friendly, knowledgeable masseuses.
The Mae Sakut Nature Trail – 3 hours of exciting hiking
There are several national parks in the mountains around Mae Hong Son. At Mae Surin NP, I got what I was always looking for without a guide or organization – a map with a circular route, the Mae Sakut Nature Trail. A passage up into the mountains of the national park is secured with a barrier and a kind of nature guard post. However, no one was actually stopped. The rangers handed me a copied map so that I could set off on my own.
The Mae Sakut Nature Trail is easy to walk in about 3-4 hours and offers a number of interesting insights into the ecological structure of northern Thailand’s mountain forests, from waterfalls (I would have liked to take a shower straight away, but the mosquitoes!) to different tree species and types of vegetation to the distant view from the ridge path. Information boards explained the vegetation and ecological significance at several points. The final highlight was the three-tiered Maekut Long waterfall. For my taste, such educational offers are still too rare in Thai national parks.
Mud bath and Fish Cave – destinations north of Mae Hong Son
There are also several small exploration destinations “hidden” to the north of Mae Hong Son. These are also best reached by moped. In a state-approved mud bath (Phu Klon Mud Spa) you can test the healing effects of mud.
A little further into the mountains in the north, the (signposted) path leads to another waterfall. Watch out, the border with Myanmar is not far away and describes an arc to the east.
On the main road 1095 from Mae Hong Son to Pai near Ban Huai Pha, the Thai people rave about an attraction – the “Fish Cave”. Several streams and small ponds flow through the cave, where large numbers of carp live. One cave is connected to the pond underground, which is why the fish can swim into it. For the locals, it is a huge pleasure to throw food pellets into the small basin at the bottom of the cave, so that the fish crowd in and “fight” over the food like in a sardine can, so that the water starts to bubble.
Travel tips for Mae Hong Son
How to get there
There are two ways to get to Mae Hong Son – by bus or by plane. Buses or minibuses run from Chiang Mai, Arcade Bus Station 2 via Pai. If you want to stay longer in the region, you can also do the round trip the other way round – from Chiang Mai to Mae Sariang (where there is also a national park on the border with Myanmar) and from there take another bus to Mae Hong Son.
There are flights to and from Chiang Mai from the small airport in Mae Hong Son several times a day. If you’re in a hurry or want to avoid the almost breakneck bus journey at least once, you can book a flight via 12go*, for example. From Chiang Mai there are further connections to the various regions of Southeast Asia, including of course to the Bangkok hub. If you would like to take an intercontinental flight in Bangkok for your onward or return journey with relatively little transfer time, then try to get a domestic flight to Suvarnabumi Airport (BKK). The older Don Mueang airport is connected to Suvarnabumi airport by shuttle bus, but given the traffic in Bangkok this can be a test of patience.
Accommodation in Mae Hong Son
Budget accomodation
The Saiyud Hostel in Mae Hong Son* is a genuine hostel. Individual dorm beds are usually available here. If you want to make provisions, you can make a reservation via the above-mentioned website.
The Crossroads House* in Mae Hong Son, which is very popular with travelers, also has dorm beds. Campfires in the evening, breakfast options and plenty of space for socializing ensure that backpackers can interact with each other. There is even fitness equipment available. Bicycles and mopeds can be hired.
The P.L.P. – Guesthouse* mainly offers twin rooms, but also a family room – all with their own shower room. The garden with hammock area is a popular place to relax. A simple breakfast is included.
The Bondee House* is a little more expensive, but still backpacker-style. This is particularly popular with the aforementioned motorcycle fans. There is a lower part of the building where motorcycles can be parked under cover and in the shade in front of the rooms. Fridges for self-catering are available, instant coffee, tea and some fruit etc. are provided in the morning – but no proper breakfast is included.
Upscale price range for overnight stays in Mae Hong Son
The Fern Resort Mae Hong Son* is located outside and secluded between rice fields, with the national park in sight. Ideally suited as a starting point for a nature trail, which begins virtually on the doorstep and leads for 3-4 hours through the forests of the national park. With its infinity pool and barbecue evening in the restaurant, it is an experience for couples and families. The two-person rooms can be converted into extra beds for families.
The Rimtarn Resort Mae Hong Son* is quiet yet close to the city. A large, beautifully landscaped garden surrounds the buildings. Guests feel at home on the terrace, even in company, and the rooms are simple but friendly and tastefully decorated. Guests are expected at the bar. There are also many restaurants nearby and the night market is just around the corner. A family room can accommodate 4 to 5 guests.
Weather in the province of Mae Hong Son
The small overview shows you how the weather will develop today and over the next few days in the region around Mae Hong Son. So you can plan your activities better.
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